Bandon Dunes: The Happiest Place on Earth
Yet another primer of the most special spot for golf sickos
I just got back from my third trip to Bandon Dunes Resort. For true golf sickos, this needs no introduction, but for the rest of you, the resort has five 18-hole courses - all ranked in the top-15 of public courses in the country. There’s also a 13-hole par-3 course that is the best short course in the country in my opinion, and another 18-hole par-3 course under construction.
It’s golf paradise. I joke that Disneyland should give up its nickname as “The Happiest Place on Earth,” as by a LANDSLIDE Bandon Dunes makes me much, much happier.
I’ve talked about it before, ranking my “Dream 18” there with two posts about the composite front nine and back nine, and all the courses rank in my personal top-25 that I’ve played. It’s very common - and in fact, a total delight - to ask everyone who has played each course what their rankings are. While that’s fun and I’ve certainly indulged, I left this trip thinking that they ALL got better. I think Sheep Ranch has some of the most scenic holes but a few that are clearly jammed in and aren’t super different than others on the course, so for me it’s my least favorite, but even though I personally DO rank every course I’ve played, it’s pretty fluid and somewhat frivolous. They’re all fantastic, and all different.
Having been there three times, its also amusing to think I could have made up my mind about any of the courses in my prior two trips, or frankly even now. The first time I went to Sheep Ranch, it was sunny and mildly windy. The second, it was sleeting and raining, with so much wind we stopped keeping score somewhere around the turn. This time, it was cold but almost no wind at all. It played completely differently each time, and my opinion of it soared this time upon realizing how fun it would be to play on repeat, knowing how different it would be.
Similarly, the first two times I played Bandon Trails, I finished into a howling wind. One of those holes is a long par-5 uphill. It’s not really fun to play that into a massive wind, but it is a challenge. This time? No wind to speak of, and getting on in regulation was entirely possible.
What was clear with all the courses is that they’re all works of art. They’re all more fun to play again and again. One of my friends on the trip said his favorite course is whatever he’s playing right now, or whatever the next course will be. That might be the best take.
But, I thought I’d still put down my thoughts here for anyone considering a trip there, especially if it’s the first such journey.
Play all the courses, and don’t worry about what order you do that in.
There are a lot of well-intentioned folks and websites that preach the “best” way to play the courses for the first time. Some of this is predicated on abject nonsense - such as, it’s always much windier in the afternoon. Talk to a few caddies on property and they’ll snort at this, noting many days the wind was brutal in the morning and calm in the afternoon. You can’t plan for wind, so don’t, and just expect it to be windy ALL the time.
So is there a proper “order” to play them in? One pundit I saw said to play Sheep Ranch last, because the views are so stunning everything else will pale in comparison. To that, I say — hooey. (Yes, “hooey,” I’m old as dirt.) Why not start with something stunning? It’s probably the easiest course out there, with the clear best opening hole, so a gentle handshake makes a ton of sense.
The only thing I guess I’d say is to NOT start with Bandon Trails. Trails is the one course that is mostly inland and very different from the others, so it would be a weird introduction to Bandon. But now that I think about it, it might be a perfect intro as you wouldn’t have the other courses to compare it to, and could appreciate it for the masterpiece it truly is.
This is all to say, there’s no real order. You’re going to love them all.
Or are you? Some advice on focus and mental prep.
I’ve never met anyone who went to Bandon and didn’t love it. But I do know people who haven’t had as good of a time as I have. They tend to be for the same reasons, so here’s a few tips.
It’s gonna be windy, and it will probably rain. Some folks really get bent by how much wind there is. But it’s part of the experience! If you go to Scotland or Ireland, you’ll expect both weather and wind, and it’s the same thing here. Just accept it. Deal with it.
The flags flap a LOT in the wind, especially on Pacific Dunes. Given that, try not to worry about your scores. Sure, you might be in a tournament with friends or whatnot. But the conditties are gonna mess with you, especially if you typically play on very different courses. That’s okay! Just enjoy the walk, bask in the great shots you WILL hit, and laugh off the mess.
Conditions are mixed but THIS is pretty rare. Happened the week after we went, and my friend Giles Ochs took this. WILD. Take a caddie! I’ve now been three times, and the first time we had a caddie I was fine with, but rubbed my buddy the wrong way. Accordingly, the second time I carried my own bag, and I thought that was fine. But this last visit, I had the same caddie every round. It was so helpful, both to reduce the exhaustion but even moreso with club selection and green reading. And if you get a good caddie - and there are many - it’s a super fun time hanging with someone over those rounds. If you’re not sure who to ask for, ask someone who has been who they like. Many golf message boards will also have the same resources. Or just roll the dice - if on your first round, you don’t click, you can ask for a new caddie - otherwise, he (or she!) will stay with you the whole time. It’s worth acknowledging that Bandon Dunes isn’t cheap, and a caddie is $100 plus tip for each bag they carry. That’s not in everyone’s budget - but if you can afford it, it’s worth every penny.
Plus, if you ask and they’re up for it, most of your caddies are sticks and can show you how to play golf. Joe put this 300 yard drive ten feet behind the pin. Prepare to walk. A lot of golfers talk about how they “enjoy the walk,” but end up taking a cart most rounds. Sadly, a lot of golf courses in the country enforce this to make extra revenue. But all the courses at Bandon Dunes are walking only, and it’s a great thing to play championship courses that literally have no cart paths. But are you ready to walk eight or nine miles of somewhat hilly terrain, perhaps carrying or pushing a 30 lb bag? You might think you are, but until you try it, you might be wrong.
A lot of the walks between holes (especially at Trails, though this is Pacific Dunes) are so scenic and weird, you barely notice the hike involved. Go hard, but recover harder. Hey, I’ve been young before. (Long ago, in a galaxy far, far away.) It’s great to get together with buddies and drink to excess after a long day on the course. But if you stretch, take an Aleve and even use the hot tub (there’s a great one in the Lodge, free for all guests) and hey, maybe even get a massage … you’re gonna have a better time.
We stayed at the Grove Villas, and these Therabody recovery sleeves were there for our use and OH MY GOD
The biggest problem is that Bandon Dunes is totally oversold. Right now, they’re booked through August 2024 (that’s 18 months from the time of this writing) and will sell out for most dates within hours of opening that up on the booking calendar. To some degree, it’s about lodging, but the courses are full. (You need to stay on property to book in advance, but that also means 21 days beforehand, folks staying in town (or locals) can book and often do.)
It’s worth looking farther ahead in your calendar than perhaps you normally would, and plan a trip to Bandon Dunes. We are already planning on returning in February 2025, and whenever the reservations open up, we’ll be on hold. And it will be worth it.
Have you been to Bandon Dunes? What did I get wrong or leave out?